Medicinal use of daylilies

Medicinal use of daylilies

Read part 1. ← Daylilies - growing, care and reproduction

Medicinal properties of daylily

Daylilies have been known since antiquity. Back in 70 BC. e. the Roman naturalist Pliny described a species of daylily in his Natural History, and Dioscorides reported on the medicinal properties of its flowers and leaves.

In the East, where daylilies are especially widespread, their healing properties... Daylilies are mentioned in many ancient Chinese herbalists.

In folk medicine, a decoction of fully blossoming flowers is drunk for diseases of the heart and liver, for pain in the epigastric part of the abdomen; water infusion of herbs (together with flowers) is used for fever and rheumatism; infusion of leaves and stems - with jaundice. Rhizomes and roots are recommended for the treatment of female diseases. In Tibetan medicine, Krasnodnev flowers are used as a tonic, heart and wound healing agent.

Daylily is also used in medicine, for example, in Chinese, mainly for liver diseases, as well as a diuretic, antipyretic, decongestant and anti-inflammatory agent; it is used as a sedative for insomnia, dizziness with tinnitus, and night blindness. The Chinese also use young daylily sprouts as a remedy for jaundice and urinary retention.

They also have a diuretic and anti-inflammatory effect and aid in digestion. 250 grams of raw daylily buds contain the daily requirement of vitamin C, and they contain almost 1.5 times more easily digestible protein than in beans, the biologically active substances in it are more diverse than in germinated cereals and soybeans.

The following types of daylilies are used as medicinal plants, which also decorate gardens and flower beds with their flowering:

Daylily red or brown-yellow (Hemerocallis fulva). Leaves are long, up to 100 cm, peduncles are thick, strong, 110-115 cm tall. Flowers in an inflorescence from 5 to 20. The flower is 7-10 cm long, odorless, it is painted in reddish-red tones with numerous dark veins and a slightly wavy edge. His throat is thick yellow. Blooms in mid-July, blooms profusely. It has a large number of natural forms, including those with double flowers.

Daylily small (Hemerocallis minor). Has bushes up to 60 cm tall. The leaves are narrow, up to 0.7-1 cm. The flowers are small, 7-9 cm in diameter, wide open, monochromatic, light yellow, with a pleasant strong aroma. The buds are red-brown. Blooms in late May - early June, blooming in June. Blooms in June-July with light yellow, solid colors. The flowers are large, up to 8-9 cm long, wide open, with a pleasant strong aroma.

Daylily lemon yellow (Hemerocallis citrina). It has a nocturnal flowering type. In China, it has been introduced into culture since ancient times. Bush 80-90 cm high with dark green leaves. The length of the flower reaches 14 cm, and the width in the semi-closed state is 12 cm. The flowers have a very pleasant strong aroma. Blooms from the second half of July 35-40 days.

Daylily of Middendorf (Hemerocallis middendorffii) is an early flowering daylily. The leaves are very narrow, up to 1.8 cm wide, stems up to 80 cm high. The flowers are fragrant, bright orange, 11 cm in diameter and up to 9 cm long. The first flowers sometimes appear in mid-May; in autumn it blooms again. Blooms in June for 15-25 days.

Collection and processing of medicinal raw materials

The subject of the collection is the stem, leaves, flowers, young shoots, roots and rhizomes. Prepare from raw materials:

Infusion of yellow daylily herb

1 tbsp. a spoonful of yellow daylily is poured with a glass of boiling water, insisted, wrapped, for 1 hour and filtered. Take 1 tbsp. spoon 3-4 times a day for gout.

Infusion of dry leaves and stems

1 tbsp. 400 ml of boiling water is poured over a spoonful of herbs, insisted for 4 hours, filtered. Take 100 ml four times a day for liver diseases, as well as for disorders of the digestive system Infusion of daylily herb. 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dry grass is poured with two glasses of boiling water, insisted for 2 hours, filtered. Take 120 ml with 1 tablespoon honey four times a day for tumors, fever, food poisoning, bleeding and as a tonic.

There are no contraindications to the use of these infusions.

Read the ending Daylilies in cooking →

Tatiana Lybina, gardener,
Zhezkazgan, Republic of Kazakhstan

Aralia Manchu. Medicinal value

The roots of Manchurian aralia, containing biologically active chemicals, are of medicinal value.

Manchurian Aralia (Aralia mandchurica Rupr. Et Maxim.) belongs to the Araiiaceae family. In recent years, it is more common under the name Aralia high (Aralia elata /Miq./Seem.). There are 35 species of this plant in the world, of which 3 grow in Russia. The people call aralia "thorn tree", "devil tree".

In our country, it grows wild in small groups in the cedar-deciduous forests of the Sikhote-Alin. Often forms impassable thickets in places of forests that have disappeared as a result of fires and felling. Its range covers the southeastern regions of the Amur Region, almost the entire Primorsky Territory and the south of the Khabarovsk Territory.

Aralia Manchurian - a small tree, from 3 to 4 m high, sometimes reaches 12 m. It has a developed root system, consisting mainly of roots up to 5 cm in diameter, located horizontally in the soil. The peculiar trunk of aralia is covered with light wrinkled bark, covered with numerous thorns. Lateral shoots are usually absent or are concentrated in small numbers at the very top of the main shoots. Leaves are alternate, up to 1 m long, sitting on long petioles, double or triple pinnate, often with long thorns. The leaves are oval or ovoid, with a pointed apex and a rounded base. Small flowers of white or cream color are collected in umbrellas, forming complex multi-flowered inflorescences, consisting of 4-8 apical panicles. Fruits are spherical, 3 to 5 mm in diameter, blue-black, with 5 seeds. Seeds are oblong-elongated, light brown or grayish, up to 2.5 mm long, 1.7 mm wide.

Aralia begins to bloom and bear fruit most often on the 6-8th year of life, some specimens - on the 4th-5th. The beginning of flowering is observed in the second half of July - August, the end - in August - September. Fruit ripening usually occurs in September, but not annually.

Application in medicine of Manchurian aralia

The roots of the Manchurian aralia have medicinal valuecontaining biologically active chemicals - aralosides A, B and C, related to triterpene glycosides. In addition, small amounts of alkaloids are found in the roots, including aralin, choline, as well as proteins, starch, carbohydrates, essential oils, tannins, and mineral salts.

In official medicine use a tincture from the roots of Manchurian aralia as a means, stimulating the central nervous system with asthenic syndrome, asthenoneurotic conditions, post-traumatic asthenia on the basis of chronic neurological diseases, with mental and physical fatigue, hypotension and impotence. The tincture is taken 30-40 drops 2-3 times a day. Store in a dark place.

The medical industry produces the drug Saparal, which has a similar effect and consists of the sum of aralosides A, B and C. It is prescribed 1 tablet (0.05 g) 2-3 times a day (morning and afternoon) after meals. The course of treatment is 15-30 days. The drug has a slight toxicity, so it should only be taken as directed by a doctor.

Aralia dosage forms stimulate not only the central nervous system, but also the cardiovascular system, and also increase muscle strength, increase appetite, and improve the general well-being of patients.

Cultivation and care of Manchurian aralia

Aralia is propagated by seeds and vegetatively - by root cuttings and root suckers.

The site intended for sowing and planting cuttings should be flat in relief, with fertile, structural, sufficiently moist soils. In autumn, manure or peat compost is introduced for digging at the rate of 6 kg / m 2.

Seeds of Manchurian aralia do not germinate well. To obtain seedlings in the year of sowing, they must be stratified at variable temperatures or treated with gibberellin. Optimal periods of stratification are 3-4 months at 20 ° C and 4 months at 2-5 ° C. After such preparation, when sowing in open ground, seedlings appear in 7-8 months. When using gibberellic acid, the optimal seed treatment period is 24 hours at various concentrations: 0.05%, 0.25 and 0.1%. A positive experience was obtained with the use of gibberellin at a concentration of 0.05% for two days, followed by two months of stratification at a temperature of 0-5 ° C (in a refrigerator).

After treatment, the seeds are washed with tap water and kept for 1 to 3 months at a temperature of 18–20 ° C until germination. It is better to sow seeds directly into the holes, well filled with an organic-mineral mixture per hole: 3 kg of manure or compost and 20-30 g of nitroammofoska.

Early spring sowing is carried out at the end of April with stratified seeds. Freshly harvested seeds can be sown in the fall (late August - early September) to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. The seeding rate of seeds is 10-12 kg / ha, the distance between the holes is 50-60 cm. After sowing, the rows are sprinkled with humus or peat crumb mixed with earth. In this case, seedlings appear the next year.

The seeds of the Manchurian aralia lose germination relatively quickly. Therefore, it is not recommended to store them for more than 1.5 years.

Root cuttings and rhizome cuttings are best planted in early spring before the buds grow back. The embedment depth should not exceed 5-6 cm.

Root offspring are also planted in the spring in planting pits prepared according to the type of fruit crops, well filled with fertilizers.

Caring for plants, especially in the early years, consists of 3-4 hoes and weeding. Aralia needs feeding with nitroammophos at the rate of 20-30 g for each plant. It responds well to organic feeding with slurry during the growing season: in early spring and during budding. During the fruiting period, aralia sets a large number of fruits. One plant is capable of forming up to 60 thousand of them, but the main part does not ripen.

The roots of Manchu aralia are best harvested in autumn - in September or early spring (before the leaves open)... At this time, the highest content of active substances is observed in them.

The dug roots are cleaned of soil, cut into cylindrical pieces (1-3 cm in diameter) and dried in dryers at a temperature of 60 ° C. The surplus grown can be taken to pharmacies.

Coix is ​​Job's tear. Healing tea in a decorative garden

Coix is ​​a well-known biblical plant, more familiar to nature lovers as "tears of the Virgin", "Mary's tears", "Job's tear", "Jupiter's tear", bead, teardrop and others. An interesting plant from ancient times. The first mention of koix as a medicinal plant dates back to the creation in China of the canon of medicinal herbs "Herbalism of the Sacred Farmer". As an ornamental plant, the bead has become fashionable in recent years. For its useful qualities, coix is ​​worthy of cultivation in a garden bed. I propose to remember this plant under one more name of the pharmacological direction "Kanglight". Kanglite is used to treat cancer in Russian hospitals. The Chinese medicine, the recipe of which is patented directly in China, Japan, Russia, the USA, the EU, is made from coix seeds.

Iovlev's tears, Coix Job's tears, Coix lacryma-jobi. © HEN-Magonza

Yarrow application

Traditional medicine uses the aerial part of the plant in the treatment of bleeding, inflammation of various kinds. The plant is used for flatulence, stomach ulcers, gastritis and heavy menstruation. The herb helps with dysentery and as a remedy that increases appetite and improves digestion.

Yarrow decoction is used for nosebleeds, tuberculosis and hemoptysis. The infusion of the plant is recommended for diathesis, hysteria, urinary incontinence, obesity and as a means of improving lactation.

The plant helps to cure bleeding gums, atherosclerosis. From the broth, enemas are made for hemorrhoids. On the basis of yarrow, baths are taken for skin diseases. Plant juice mixed with honey is used as a general tonic. Also, the juice of the plant is used for cutaneous tuberculosis, fistula and ulcers.

Yarrow broth for weight loss and diabetes. Take 1 tablespoon of chopped herbs and pour a glass of boiling water over it. Put the composition on fire until it boils. After removing the product from the heat, leave for half an hour. Strain the finished broth and take 100 ml three times a day after meals.

Fresh yarrow juice. We take fresh leaves of the plant and rinse them in running water. Grind the leaves into gruel and squeeze the juice. Take the ready-made juice three times a day, 1 teaspoon. The juice can be used for irrigation for skin lesions, for rinsing in the treatment of periodontal disease and in the form of lotions.

Yarrow tincture... Take 2 tablespoons of dry herb half with flowers, pour a glass of vodka and leave for 1 week in a dark, warm place. The medicine is filtered and taken 20 drops three times a day before meals. They use this tincture for angina pectoris, impotence and intestinal spasms.

Yarrow bath. To do this, take 200 grams of dry grass, pour three liters of boiling water and leave for half an hour. Having filtered the finished infusion, it is poured into a bath and taken before bedtime for 15 minutes. After leaving the bath, you need to wrap yourself in a warm sheet. You need to take such baths no more than 2 weeks. This infusion can also be used for lotions that are used for eczema and pustules.

Daylilies in the garden

All daylilies in my garden I conventionally divide into "garden" and "garden" (may the flower growers forgive me for this classification). "Garden" daylilies are very unpretentious, they are grown everywhere in gardens and parks, they practically do not require maintenance. Growing up, such daylilies drown out even malicious weeds - creeping wheatgrass and sow thistle. An inexperienced grower can plant them upside down, and these daylilies will grow and bloom. Their winter hardiness is such that if they remain for the winter with bare roots, they still do not freeze. These daylilies include wild species: Middendorf, brown-yellow, yellow, their varieties kwanso, rosea, as well as old varieties of selection of the 30-50s: Atum, Ed, Mikado, Slides and others. All these daylilies usually have flowers with narrow petals, their color is red, yellow or brown.


Daylilies can be eaten as a vegetable, which is what our ancestors did for centuries. Flowers and buds are rich in nutrients and vitamins. For clarity, let's compare them with some vegetable plants.

Plant names Vitamin C, mg% Vitamin A, units Protein,%
Daylily (buds) 43 983 3,1
Beans 19 630 2,4
Asparagus 33 1000 2,2

In Chinese cuisine, for example, all parts of this plant are used for food, both dried and fresh. Young shoots are used for making salads, but flowers and buds are most often used. Here are some gourmet recipes.

  • Fried daylily:
    Mix about 12-15 buds with a beaten egg. Bread in a mixture of flour, salt and onion powder (dry chopped onion). Fry in boiling vegetable oil until crispy.
  • Stewed daylily:
    In a saucepan or deep frying pan, pour the buds or flowers with a little water, cook over low heat until soft. Remove from the pan, pour over melted butter, sprinkle with onion powder. Serve warm.
  • Chicken with daylily:
    Divide the chicken breast into very small pieces, mix with the half onion cut into pieces, spices including ginger, soy sauce and starch and fry for 2 minutes in boiling oil or fat. Remove the prepared meat from the pan, and fry the remaining half of the onion in the remaining oil. Then add daylily buds, pour 1/4 cup of water, salt, at the end add the finished chicken meat and boil everything.


And yet the main purpose of the daylily is to decorate the garden. Modern varieties of daylilies, which, unfortunately, are still little known in our country, can amaze anyone, even a sophisticated florist, with their beauty. Over the past 30 years, tens of thousands of beautiful varieties have been bred abroad, which are strikingly different from the original species in the size of the flowers, and their shape and color. But they require more attention, knowledge of agricultural technology, love. Only with careful care, the daylily, nicknamed by the Germans "the flower of an intelligent lazy person," will present you with its amazing beauty.

Daylilies love the sun, although they tolerate shade, but in this case they bloom 2-3 weeks later, any soil is suitable for them, except for heavy and damp. On overly fertilized soil, they will develop a lot of leaves to the detriment of flowering. Therefore, one should not get carried away with fertilizing, especially nitrogen fertilizers, even in spring. In the first year, when planting, it is generally not recommended to apply fertilizers.

It is advisable to feed the plants after flowering, when flower buds are laid, ensuring flowering for the next year. It is better to give nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 5:15:12. Daylilies need to be watered rarely, but abundantly. To retain moisture in summer, and with late planting in autumn and to protect against frost, the soil under the bushes should be mulched with peat, wood chips or grass cuttings. You can add compost or humus, which will serve as fertilizer and mulch at the same time.


As for the winter hardiness of modern varieties and their shelter for the winter, there are no general recommendations for each individual variety. Take a closer look at your daylilies, each of them is individual, each grows and hibernates in its own way.

According to the characteristics of the growing season, varietal daylilies are divided into 3 groups: dormant, evergreen and semi-evergreen. In sleeping foliage, it turns yellow and dies off quickly after the onset of the first frost. These are mainly species and old "garden" varieties. They hibernate without shelter. There are many modern varieties belonging to this group, which you can admire endlessly.

In evergreen daylilies, foliage in our climate freezes in a green state. Many of the evergreens will not grow with us, even if they are covered for the winter. After the onset of frost, the evergreens retain 3-5 cm of green mass, and if the snow cover is strong and stable enough, the plants will survive and will not freeze over the winter. However, in the first thaw, they will start growing again, and then freeze with the onset of frost.


Semi-evergreen daylilies also retain green foliage (7-10 cm) under snow in our cold winter. So that they do not freeze, they must be covered for the winter with peat, straw, spruce branches, sawdust or leaves. But this group of daylilies does not suffer from alternating thaws and frosts, because daylilies do not start growing prematurely, until the onset of spring. By the way, daylilies of the last two groups include varieties of extraordinary beauty.

Daylilies bloom mainly in July and August at the same time as lilies and roses and look good with them, but they also harmonize with more exotic flowers, such as agapanthus, knifofia, crocosmia, Galtonia and perennial lobelia.

Agapanthus contrasts beautifully with yellow, orange and brown-bronze colors, for example, with varieties California Sunshine, Sunny Diamand, Chokolat Dool... Pink daylilies don't look good next to this plant.


Fawn, pink and contrasting varieties of daylilies (Anna Warner, Barbara Mitchell, Janice Brown) should be planted among paniculate phlox, choosing colors: for example, phlox Amethyst goes well with purple-colored flowers of daylilies such as Chicago Prestige, West Star, Brandenburg... Very common composition: phlox Europa with daylily Paidoras Boxing in the foreground or with another interesting miniature daylily variety, such as Diamond Sekl.

Red varieties look great in late summer. Matador, Grand Opera, Jovial next to crocosmia. Even more spectacular are the red daylilies with a yellow throat Atum Red, Christmas Iz, Timeless Fire against the background of yellow evening primrose.

You can make a composition only of daylilies in some part of the garden to show the individuality of each individual variety and its flowers. For example, making a mixborder only from daylilies, you can pick them up in height: plant dwarf varieties in the foreground, then medium-sized ones and in the background - tall ones.


You can plant daylilies among shrubs, picking up varieties of tall and large-flowered with contrasting "eyes", for example Strawberry Candy, Niall Plum... In the foreground, in this case, decorative deciduous hosts should be placed. You can enhance the effect by planting any shrubs with red or purple leaves, such as red-leaved varieties of barberry or maple.

Purple and apricot colors go well in compositions. So it is necessary to select such varieties that not only complement each other, but also emphasize the beauty of the "neighbor". There is so much room for creativity here!

In cottage gardens, it is better to plant species daylilies or old unpretentious varieties. In such cases, daylilies are used as plants "starting" in growth. In the spring, while hosts, aconites and other perennials unfold their leaves, and cereals are just waking up, daylilies will already decorate the garden, and against the background of their foliage, the red sprouts of peonies will seem like exotic flowers. Next to the leathery, sometimes brown after wintering leaves of the berry, the green of the daylilies is very decorative.


In our conditions, the leaves of the brown-yellow daylily appear first. There is also a form with pink flowers - rosea, as well as a double variety - kwanso.

Such exotic varieties of daylilies have also been bred that are inappropriate either in a cottage garden or in mix-borders: they are there like diamonds in an iron frame. To such daylilies it is necessary to select extraordinary "neighbors": feather grass, other cereals (penisetum, cordateria, kalamagrostis, miscanthus), interspersed with gentian, cannes, yucca.

The well-known marsh iris creates a stunning visual effect next to daylilies of blue and lilac shades: Prince of Venus, Blue Nile, Silver Vale etc. Siberian irises, planted next to daylilies, also emphasize their beauty.


So you choose, dear flower growers, which daylilies to grow in your garden!

Materials used:

  • N. Khimina, amateur florist, member of the American Daylily Society

Planting and breeding

Of all the types of lavender in central Russia in the open field, only narrow-leaved lavender can survive and only if there is a good shelter for the winter. Reproduction of lavender occurs in three ways: seed and vegetative way, with the help of cuttings, dividing the bush and layering. Lavender seed stratification is a must before planting. Growing lavender from seeds is a rather laborious process, as a result of which it is rarely used.

Lavender at home is often used for interior decoration, as drawings and images on dishes, furniture, textiles, and flower arrangements.

In the southern regions, a variety of lavender varieties are grown at home and in greenhouses. Some varieties, for example, multi-cut lavender, which is extremely thermophilic, can now be raised in any climatic zone.

How to plant lavender?

When choosing young bushes ready for planting in specialized stores, you should choose varieties adapted to the local climatic zone. Experienced growers advise planting lavender on the site in early spring, when the night frosts have stopped. Planting is possible in the fall, but only for the southern regions and no later than 2 months before the onset of cold weather.

Immediately before planting, the bush is lowered for 1 -1.5 hours in cold water.

Since the plant loves elevation, before planting lavender, it is necessary to make beds at a height of 20 - 40 cm above ground level, or on an elevation.

To stimulate young bushes to grow and branch, their upper part is cut off before planting. Overgrown roots and lower leafy branches are removed. For seedlings, a hole is prepared with a depth of 20 - 30 cm. The distance between the plants should be equal to the growth of an adult bush. To create tighter plantings, the distance between the seedlings is reduced.

Lavender seeds remain viable for many years, provided they are stored properly. After ripening, they are collected and sealed in a dry sealed container. In mid-autumn, lavender seeds can be sown directly into open ground without prior stratification.

How to grow lavender in the country?

First of all, you need to choose a landing site: it must be open, protected from the wind. In shady places, it will not work to achieve a bright saturated flowering.

How to grow lavender in the country so that it does not freeze in winter and pleases with its presence for many years? For residents of a cold climatic zone, flower growers are advised to plant bushes not in open ground, but in large flowerpots, which are brought into the room with the onset of cold weather.

When planting lavender in open ground, the watering regime should be observed: waterlogging of the soil is extremely dangerous, it will lead to the death of the plant.

How to grow lavender in the country so that it reaches its full potential? One of the main conditions for care is to apply top dressing in a timely manner, which will stimulate the bush to the rapid growth of green mass, abundant and prolonged flowering.

To create a neat lawn, border, flower bed, edging of a flower garden, hedge and alpine slide, the crown of the bush should be formed, otherwise it will take an indefinite shape.

When growing lavender seedlings, flowering should not be expected until next year.

Seeds for seedlings are planted in late February - early March in small containers with soil. Seeds are sown in shallow pits at a distance of 2 - 3 cm from each other. Cover the container with a transparent lid, provide constant lighting, periodic watering, temperature + 15 ... + 21 C. Under these conditions, the seeds will germinate in 1.5 - 2 weeks. During this time, the containers must be ventilated daily. As soon as shoots appear, the airing time is increased. The grown sprouts are planted in separate pots or in flowerpots at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Young shoots tolerate transplanting well. In May, such sprouts are planted in a permanent place in open ground.

How to grow lavender at home?

To grow lavender at home, you need to pick up a container with holes in the bottom to remove excess moisture. A pot with a diameter of 25 - 30 cm and a volume of up to 2 liters is suitable. The bush will grow to its full size for about 3 to 5 years. During this time, the bush is transplanted into larger pots annually.

The flower needs to be able to drain excess water quickly and well. To do this, a drainage layer is laid on the bottom of the container: you can use any suitable material, for example, expanded clay, pebbles, broken brick, nut shells, shards. Care should be taken to ensure that the drain does not obstruct the drain holes.

Before trying to grow lavender at home, you should create a suitable environment for it. The soil should consist of a mixture of sand and peat; it will be useful to add crushed eggshells to the ground. Before planting lavender seeds in pots at home, they are stratified.

The main task when caring for lavender at home is to ensure proper periodic watering, the required level of humidity, as much sunlight and heat as possible. Young seedlings are watered daily in the morning or in the evening throughout the growing season. The water should be at room temperature, settled. The soil should be slightly moist; over-watering can ruin the plant. The bush is very fond of when, when watering, water gets on the green parts of the plant.

To stimulate growth during the first 2 - 3 months, young bushes are fed weekly with liquid fertilizer (2 grams per 1 liter of water). A good humidity level can be maintained with an electric humidifier or manually sprayed with cold water around the flower pot. Photophilous lavender requires a lot of light, so it is better to allocate a place for it on the windowsill on the south side. Young shoots should be provided with conditions so that they are under lighting for at least 10 hours a day; in extreme cases, phytolamps can be used. With the onset of spring, the pot with the plant should be taken out into the open air for a couple of hours a day, each time slightly increasing the "walk" time.

Since the flower hibernates indoors, the bush is pruned after the peduncles have dried. In winter, the flower needs peace. At this time, watering is reduced, and the pot itself is placed in a cooler place. If the container with the plant is on the windowsill, you should take care that the heat from the central heating battery does not dry out the soil. If the lavender did not rest in winter, but went into growth, with the arrival of spring, the growths that have grown over the winter are necessarily cut off.

How to plant lavender seeds?

Before sowing lavender seeds, they must be pretreated - stratified. For correct stratification, the seeds are poured into a pot with wet sand, covered with a lid and removed in the cold, kept for 1.5 - 2 months at a temperature of +5 C. Lavender is planted twice a year - in early spring and in mid-autumn.

In October, the collected lavender seeds are sown in the ground, sprinkled on top with a layer of earth up to 4 mm high. If the ground is dry, then the bed must be moistened. In winter, the landing site is covered with a large layer of snow, thereby natural stratification occurs. After the lavender seeds have been planted in the ground before winter, the first shoots can be expected not earlier than May, in some cases even later, when the night frosts have passed.

For spring planting, seeds pre-seasoned in the cold are used. To grow lavender from seeds at home, prepare a container with loosely drained peat soil, sow seeds. If after 2 - 3 weeks the seedlings have not appeared, the seed pot is removed for one month in the refrigerator for re-stratification. In May, as soon as the temperature does not drop below -5 ... -7 C at night, seeds are sown in open ground at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from each other.


Propagating bushes by cuttings is quite simple. For this, lignified annual shoots are suitable, which are divided by 10 cm, rooted in moist soil by 2 - 7 cm, covered with a transparent cap and watered regularly. The ambient temperature should be within + 15… + 20 С, good lighting and sufficiently humid air are needed. When warm weather sets in, lavender cuttings are opened, after which they take root and grow very quickly.

You can quickly propagate a bush using layering.To do this, in the spring, 2 - 3 branches are pressed to the ground, deepened into pits up to 5 cm high, fixed with brackets and covered with soil. After a while, the branch will take root. Separate the new bush from the mother in the fall, after pruning.

The breeding method by dividing the bush is as follows. Before preparing for winter, the bush is cut off, leaving 10 - 15 cm above ground level, carefully spud, densely covering the bushes with earth. In summer, the bush grows well, gives a lot of young shoots, which take root well. At the end of the season, the bush is dug up, divided by cutting with a knife, then the cuttings are seated in new places.

Preparing for winter

Some types of lavender are considered hardy. They are able to withstand temperatures up to - 25 C. However, experienced gardeners in any case are advised to cover the bushes to the cold. Preparation of lavender for winter begins at the end of the season, after low pruning of the bushes, on which the branches of the trees are laid. The most suitable branches of coniferous trees for these purposes. Do not cover the beds with fallen leaves, under them the bushes can begin to rot and rot.

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